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many flavors of reverse drury

#1 User is offline   jillybean 

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Posted 2011-December-24, 15:44

I play 2 way reverse drury where a 2 or 2 bid by a ph shows 10-11 and 3/4 card support and passes the decision back
to opener to set the contract. I know a number good players (including great players like Fred) think 1 way drury is best, leaving
2 as natural.

A common treatment I am finding with other players is 1M:2m:2m+1 asks responder if they are at the top of their range or have additional features. I don't see how a 1 point difference is significant in making a decision to bid game. "Feature" has never been defined for me but since I play mini splinters, we will already have shown shortage. What is expert standard?

I'm happy with the way we are paying drury and we are now discussing how we play 1M:2m:3x. Initially, we had it defined as second suit game try or advanced slam try. Now I am inclined to think it may be better as a slam try. With a second suit and game interest I am more likely to just bid game, if we are stopping below game I don't want to help the opponents find their lead.
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." MikeH
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#2 User is offline   billw55 

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Posted 2011-December-24, 18:17

yeah there are so many versions of Drury out there ... I always decline to play it because of this, it could mean about a zillion things.
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#3 User is offline   blackshoe 

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Posted 2011-December-24, 18:39

If you have a regular partnership, it would be much better to discuss the variations and decide how your partnership is going to play it than to decline to play it at all.
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#4 User is offline   Elianna 

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Posted 2011-December-24, 21:14

 jillybean, on 2011-December-24, 15:44, said:

I play 2 way reverse drury where a 2 or 2 bid by a ph shows 10-11 and 3/4 card support and passes the decision back
to opener to set the contract. I know a number good players (including great players like Fred) think 1 way drury is best, leaving
2 as natural.


I prefer having 2 be Drury, leaving 2 as natural, because we have a weak 2 bid (and not a weak 2) bid which changes the frequencies (slightly) of which minor we'd prefer to bid naturally over 1M as a passed hand. I should point out that we don't bid 2 with ANY hand that would bid a weak 2, it's more of a 8/9-11 hand.

We = Adam + me, or me + other partners.
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#5 User is offline   inquiry 

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Posted 2011-December-24, 21:45

 Elianna, on 2011-December-24, 21:14, said:

I prefer having 2 be Drury, leaving 2 as natural, because we have a weak 2 bid (and not a weak 2) bid which changes the frequencies (slightly) of which minor we'd prefer to bid naturally over 1M as a passed hand. I should point out that we don't bid 2 with ANY hand that would bid a weak 2, it's more of a 8/9-11 hand.

We = Adam + me, or me + other partners.


Jillybean should know this method. When we played together in Orlando, this is what I talked her into playing (it didn't come up, however). This is an excellent treatment.
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#6 User is offline   jillybean 

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Posted 2011-December-24, 21:47

 Elianna, on 2011-December-24, 21:14, said:

I prefer having 2 be Drury, leaving 2 as natural, because we have a weak 2 bid (and not a weak 2) bid which changes the frequencies (slightly) of which minor we'd prefer to bid naturally over 1M as a passed hand. I should point out that we don't bid 2 with ANY hand that would bid a weak 2, it's more of a 8/9-11 hand.

We = Adam + me, or me + other partners.

Elianna, what are your follow ups after 2?
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." MikeH
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#7 User is offline   Siegmund 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 11:54

Quote

If you have a regular partnership, it would be much better to discuss the variations and decide how your partnership is going to play it than to decline to play it at all.


With minisplinters and/or fit-jumps available, declining to play Drury at all is not such a crazy decision. With less shapely hands, my regular partner and I had a very simple agreement about Drury: "if you are going to have a 3-card limit raise if I open in third seat, you must open it yourself in first." This led to a few interesting inferences -- in an FSF auction like 1D-1H-1S-2C, our 2H bid was NF and catered to the possibility of opener having 11 points and 3 hearts; but he wouldn't have a balanced 11 without 3 hearts, so 2NT didn't include any subminimum hands.
Opening all of those semibalanced 11s in 1st isn't to everyone's taste, admittedly.

I too will be interested to hear more about the 2D-one-way-Drury approach. It does make a lot more sense than giving up 2C does.
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#8 User is offline   Elianna 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 15:01

 jillybean, on 2011-December-24, 21:47, said:

Elianna, what are your follow ups after 2?


We tend to keep it simple, and play the same thing as we would in the auction 1M-2M.

Also, our 2 bid is a bit more wide-range than it seems that you state that it is. It could contain good 9 point hands.

Anyway, here are our follow-ups:

2 of the major = not interested in game opposite a regular limit raise (doesn't deny a real opening hand, but usually has at most 13 HCP). Responder can bid over that with very good reason (we don't open balanced 8 counts even in third chair).

bids below 3 of the major are help-suit-game tries (but could be advanced cues), 3 of the major is highly invitational, jumps to a new suit right below game are splinter slam tries.
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#9 User is offline   JLOGIC 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 15:46

 Siegmund, on 2011-December-25, 11:54, said:

I too will be interested to hear more about the 2D-one-way-Drury approach. It does make a lot more sense than giving up 2C does.


Doesn't seem too great to me if you open 1H, you have no room compared to 1H-2C where you can bid 2D and still stop in 2H.
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#10 User is offline   straube 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 17:53

We play a strong club system with light openings. We noticed that we never had a hand that wanted to show hearts after a 3/4th seat opening so we play...

1H
.....2C-clubs
.....2D-constructive raise
.....2H-weak raise
.....2N-LR with 4 or more trump
.....Fit showing jumps

1S
.....2m-minor
.....2H-constructive raise
.....2S-weak raise
.....2N-LR with 4 or more trump
.....Fit showing jumps
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#11 User is offline   jillybean 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 19:08

 inquiry, on 2011-December-24, 21:45, said:

Jillybean should know this method. When we played together in Orlando, this is what I talked her into playing (it didn't come up, however). This is an excellent treatment.

Yes, we did. I haven't played it since, although I would be happy to play it. My regular partner likes 2 way drury.

It's not so much the initial drury bid that I am interested in but rather the follow ups. As with so many conventions, the follow ups are rarely discussed and I am intersted to hear what others are playing.
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." MikeH
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#12 User is offline   Siegmund 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 20:30

(After 1M-2D drury):

Quote

We tend to keep it simple, and play the same thing as we would in the auction 1M-2M.


One of those simple elegant solutions that goes in my "why didn't I think of that 5 years ago?" file.
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#13 User is offline   cherdano 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 20:38

Here is what I believe to be standard followups:

1M-2C:
  • 2: Full opening values, responder bids 2M with minimum, anything else (natural game tries) with max
  • 2M: subminimum, no game interest.
  • 2 after 1-2: Subminimum with both majors
  • 2NT-3M: natural slam tries (possible interested in playing 4-4 fit).
  • 3NT: Suggestion to play - probably 17-19 balanced
  • 4other: splinter
  • 4M: to play


It's probably equally important to discuss your range from drury. Some play that the minimum shows the playing strength of reasonably nice balanced 10-count, some play a wider range. I never understood the narrow range - we are at 2, have a known major fit and so a lot of space, tightening the range to something like 10-11hcp seems really a waste.
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#14 User is offline   jillybean 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 22:39

 cherdano, on 2011-December-25, 20:38, said:

Here is what I believe to be standard followups:

1M-2C:
  • 2: Full opening values, responder bids 2M with minimum, anything else (natural game tries) with max
  • 2M: subminimum, no game interest.
  • 2 after 1-2: Subminimum with both majors
  • 2NT-3M: natural slam tries (possible interested in playing 4-4 fit).
  • 3NT: Suggestion to play - probably 17-19 balanced
  • 4other: splinter
  • 4M: to play


It's probably equally important to discuss your range from drury. Some play that the minimum shows the playing strength of reasonably nice balanced 10-count, some play a wider range. I never understood the narrow range - we are at 2, have a known major fit and so a lot of space, tightening the range to something like 10-11hcp seems really a waste.


This 2 response showing a full opening is confusing me. I thought in the original drury 2 asked opener 'do you have a full opening?" and the bidding proceeded from there. 2 saying yes I have a full opener put responder, the weaker hand making the decision whether to proceed to game, knowing little about openers second suit or shape considerations. Then came reverse drury where 2 is a telling bid rather than an asking bid, allowing opener to signoff, make a game/slam try or bid game, or is the difference in openers response where originally 2 denied a full opener and 2M showed the full opener?
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." MikeH
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#15 User is offline   cherdano 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 22:42

I believe "reverse drury" means 2M = subminimum, 2 = full values (but not enough to insist on game), and probably "drury" used to be the other way round. However, I have never seen anyone play "drury", this must have been extinguished before I was born.
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#16 User is offline   blackshoe 

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Posted 2011-December-25, 23:14

The way I learned it, 2 is "I want to be in game, but I'm not sure where". If responder has 3 card support, 3NT may be the best spot.
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#17 User is offline   wank 

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Posted 2011-December-26, 02:41

to the OP, the reason people like to keep 2C as 1 way drury has nothing to do with keeping 2D as natural.

it's to allow the 2D reask after 2C on marginal game hands. most people are playing a wider range than you (9 or even 8-11) - so there's still a reasonable variation in playing strength especially when you consider that it can be 3 or 4 cards.
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#18 User is offline   sasioc 

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Posted 2011-December-26, 06:24

As has been mentioned, I play a drury bid as showing a decent 8- poor 11 points so asking where I am in my range is of value (we open most 11 counts, including balanced ones, so partner will not expect a great hand once I've passed).

Over 2C (3 card raise) we play a new suit as a long suit trial looking for slam, with the exception of 2D, which is indeed an artificial ask.

Over 2D (4 card raise) a new suit is still a long suit trial bid but now it is initially only looking for game.
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#19 User is offline   jillybean 

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Posted 2011-December-26, 13:04

 wank, on 2011-December-26, 02:41, said:

to the OP, the reason people like to keep 2C as 1 way drury has nothing to do with keeping 2D as natural.


Yes, I was simply meaning after 3rd seat opening, 2/1M is natual, not conventional. There has been a lot of disucssion
on drury vs 2way drury

http://www.bridgebas...528#entry246528
http://www.bridgebas...-it-or-hate-it/

I see my regular partner and I are playing our own version which is why I am having trouble with other partners, one day I will see if we can change to 1 way drury.
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." MikeH
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#20 User is offline   Elianna 

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Posted 2011-December-26, 19:09

I agree that normally Drury asks "do you have a sub-opener?"

Adam and I approach it more as asking "Are you interested in game opposite an invite?" We feel that having partner bid 2 of the Major denying interest in game (but still could have an opening hand) has the advantage of making it slightly more dangerous for opponents to come in.

Plus our method means that we're slightly more likely to have the natural meaning of 2 of a minor come up.

I think (as with all system decisions) it's a choice of what you're more interested in showing, and what you're more willing to give up.

I would say that if you don't have a weak 2 bid, then you SHOULD play 2=Drury, for reasons that Justin noted. But to address what he said, we don't open really bad hands in 3rd/4th chair, and so the few times that responder bids over the auction pass-1H-2D-2H, we either end up in game (and make) or are in a perfectly reasonable 3H contract. (Usually responder only bids on a really unbalanced hand with four card support.)
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