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Dodgy stopper but 3NT made not 5C If E had the lead 3NT would go down

#1 User is offline   mikl_plkcc 

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Posted 2025-June-26, 14:29



I didn't bid 3NT because I had two doubletons, one of them was dodgy. If E could gain the lead, they could run their s.

However, if 3NT was played by S, there were 10 clear top tricks available before E could gain a lead, but 5 was off AQ and a , i.e. also the same number of tricks as well.

The whole field was in 3NT so I lost a complete game swing. What was my mistake here? I encountered some 3NT failing because they could knock out my stopper and run their suits before I could obtain enough tricks, while a suit game would make, so I avoid bidding 3NT unless I am sure of my stoppers.
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#2 User is online   smerriman 

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Posted 2025-June-26, 14:33

You didn't make a mistake. 5 for a bottom board was the best you could do.
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#3 User is offline   pescetom 

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Posted 2025-June-26, 14:54

And you did really well to avoid the facile temptation to open 2NT or similar, which might just work well if partner is balanced or has hearts but could miss that all important slam in clubs.
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#4 User is offline   jillybean 

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Posted 2025-June-26, 15:06

comments deleted, didn't know it was bot bidding, thought it was interesting bridge hands
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." MikeH
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#5 User is offline   Cyberyeti 

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Posted 2025-June-26, 15:19

Your partner wrongsided 3N with the 1N bid, should really bid 1 in any sensible system.

note 3N still makes on any 4-3 diamond break even if you play K.

Even if 5 made, you would score better in 4(S)
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#6 User is offline   WasWinM 

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Posted 2025-June-26, 16:52

 Cyberyeti, on 2025-June-26, 15:19, said:

Your partner wrongsided 3N with the 1N bid, should really bid 1 in any sensible system.

note 3N still makes on any 4-3 diamond break even if you play K.

Even if 5 made, you would score better in 4(S)

How do you get to 4H, especially with a robot pard?
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#7 User is offline   P_Marlowe 

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Posted 2025-June-26, 23:44

#1 the minor suit game is called 3NT, 9 tricks are easier than 11.
#2 worrying about a suit not bid by the opponents is a waste of time, sometimes suits break 44.
#3 As it is, you had no idea, that p values were concentrated in hearts instead of diamonds.
Dont assume things about p hand, unless you have firm indication.
If you did not have a spade stopper, e.g. if you had a spade single instead, you would know,
that they have a 9 cards spade fit.
With kind regards
Uwe Gebhardt (P_Marlowe)
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#8 User is online   mikeh 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 00:17

Ok, I’ll try to avoid sarcasm.


Assuming you’re sincere, which isn’t clear to me given your seeming refusal to accept advice, let’s talk our way through how this hand should be bid. I appreciate that i don’t claim to know your methods, but you’re playing robot bridge so presumably some poor version of 2/1, which is what the robots bid…badly.

We have a pretty good 21 count, with every suit stopped…in the sense that if we declare there is no suit that they can lead and run right away.

The hand is semi-balanced.

What to open?

1C can be passed when we’re cold for 3N. Something like 109xx Jx QJxx xxx gives us decent play for 3N.

Moreover, 1C then reversing, if available, into 2H tends to suggest a less notrump suitable hand, and in no way implies 20+ hcp. Here’s a typical reverse: Axx AQJx x AKxxx

Bear in mind that by necessity we are discussing probabilities not certainties. Plus we are doing our best to describe our hand to partner.

One of the biggest drawbacks of robot bridge is that the software is simply awful, and what could be a powerful subtle auction with a competent partner becomes largely a guessing game, but I know that you play real bridge sometimes, so I’m discussing this in the context of a not utterly hopeless human partner.

So far we’ve got two reasons to choose an opening other than 1C, of which our 21 hcp and all suits stopped (in terms of the opening lead if we declare, is the most important.

Next…hand evaluation, while irrelevant to the proper final contract, is very important when playing with a live partner.

You have 21 hcp. Assuming you play 20-21 for 2N, you might open this 2N. Remember, you can always find hearts after 2N, unless partner has an appalling hand, and surely you’d like to declare a heart contract rather than lay down dummy, with a possible killing diamond lead….whether defeating you or merely costing an overtrick.

But compare this to Axx KQxx Kxx AKQx.

Same honours in same location but I hope the you can see that the fifth club..in a suit headed by AKQ…is worth something. It’s what experts call an upgradable holding. i’d value this at 22 hcp

If your range is 20-22, fine. But most 2/1 players use 20-21.

So, unless you’re one of those players who simply counts hcp, this is well worth 2C then 2N (unless partner surprises us by showing long hearts).

You’d glide into 3N.

Btw, to bid as if you know that parrtner can’t stayman with 4H, and that LHO has good diamonds but chose to lead something else, and that you don’t have 9 easy winners is just silly.

Edit: you may think ‘all the books I’ve read show 2N (or 2C then 2N) as having really balanced hands, 4333, 4432, or 5332. Partner won’t expect me to be 5422.’

There’s an important principle in bidding theory, often omitted from books for beginners. It’s called the least lie.

Bridge books aimed at beginners or intermediates use example hands, to illustrate correct bidding by (typically but not universally afaik) that match the suggested strength and shape. Plus many 5422 hands are easy to bid…give me 4 spades and a five card minor, say 4=2=2=5, and I can rebid spades over any red suit bid and if partner bids notrump or raises clubs, I know we don’t have a spade fit so I might not even bid the suit.

Here, if you had 3=4=2=4 shape, same point count, it’d be a classic 2N. So classic it could be put in the dictionary under ‘2N opening bid’.

Opening 2N ‘lies’ by the tiniest of margins….the club 2.

It’s otherwise perfect. Every suit stopped, no singleton or void, and 21 hcp. Ok…for me I upgrade but at your level it’s probably best not to do that much.

Compare to 1C then 2H. That shows a very wide range of hands, almost none of them containing 21 hcp and many of them distributional.

You had a chance to make a virtually textbook description of your hand but chose, out of fear, to distort your hand, never coming close to describing either the semi balanced nature of the hand, or the 21 hcp, or the stoppers in yiur short suits.

Think about this. Would you open 2N with Axx KQxx Kx AKQx?

If you say no….RHO might get on lead and run the diamonds through me because LHO might have diamonds….my advice is to give up the game.

If, otoh, you recognize that 2N is the right call, then ask why you let the club 2 tell you otherwise. Isn’t the club 2 the cheapest possible lie?

This principle arises many, many times. I’d say that it arises maybe once or twice a session. And the simpler your methods, the more frequently it will arise. There are so many billions of hands possible and so few bids available that you’re often holding a hand on which no call you make us a perfect description. So yiu have to lie. Learning to make the best lie is an art.

Btw…one reason experts tend to play complex methods is the complex methods allow one to describe more hand types than do simple methods….but at your level…keep it simple until you are comfortable.
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#9 User is offline   mw64ahw 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 01:43

View Postsmerriman, on 2025-June-26, 14:33, said:

You didn't make a mistake. 5 for a bottom board was the best you could do.

What do the bots do if you bid 3N and offer a choice of contracts?
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#10 User is online   smerriman 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 01:54

 mw64ahw, on 2025-June-27, 01:43, said:

What do the bots do if you bid 3N and offer a choice of contracts?

I was answering based on the OPs non-negotiable rules about avoiding obvious NT bids. Of course, 3nt is trivial to reach for any other bridge player, even with the bots.
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#11 User is offline   Cyberyeti 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 03:33

View PostWasWinM, on 2025-June-26, 16:52, said:

How do you get to 4H, especially with a robot pard?


You don't with a robot, we might.

1-1
2N (GF not balanced)-3(semi forced)
3-

now with partner showing 5+/4+ with decent hearts and you not having a hint of a stop in the other two suits and good hearts, 4 is certainly worthy of consideration
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#12 User is offline   WasWinM 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 10:10

View PostCyberyeti, on 2025-June-27, 03:33, said:

You don't with a robot, we might.

1-1
2N (GF not balanced)-3(semi forced)
3-

now with partner showing 5+/4+ with decent hearts and you not having a hint of a stop in the other two suits and good hearts, 4 is certainly worthy of consideration

Yes, but the biggest problem is the shape. With 4333 there has to be worry of a tap in the long-trump hand which as you know is a killer to 4/3 fits.
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#13 User is offline   Cyberyeti 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 10:32

View PostWasWinM, on 2025-June-27, 10:10, said:

Yes, but the biggest problem is the shape. With 4333 there has to be worry of a tap in the long-trump hand which as you know is a killer to 4/3 fits.


Yup, you take a second ruff and reverse the dummy, but these are tricks they're otherwise cashing in NT
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#14 User is offline   eagles123 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 12:10

View Postmikl_plkcc, on 2025-June-26, 14:29, said:



The whole field was in 3NT so I lost a complete game swing. What was my mistake here? I encountered some 3NT failing because they could knock out my stopper and run their suits before I could obtain enough tricks, while a suit game would make, so I avoid bidding 3NT unless I am sure of my stoppers.


Well, to say I'm getting deja vu would be an understatement.

Do you care what anyone has to say? Do you really want to improve your game? Are you willing to adapt from your quite frankly ludicrous set of bidding rules you seem to impose on yourself? Or is this just a complete waste of everyone's time?
"definitely that's what I like to play when I'm playing standard - I want to be able to bid diamonds because bidding good suits is important in bridge" - Meckstroth's opinion on weak 2 diamond
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#15 User is offline   WasWinM 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 12:50

 Cyberyeti, on 2025-June-27, 10:32, said:

Yup, you take a second ruff and reverse the dummy, but these are tricks they're otherwise cashing in NT

I generally try to avoid contracts where trump has to break 3-3.
:-)
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#16 User is offline   helene_t 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 13:10

A Bermuda Bowl player who used to post here once said that his bestr advice to intermediate players was not to worry about stoppers at all.

Another very good player wrote that when neither player has a singleton, 3NT is "always" better than 5.

So both maxims imply that there is no such thing as a small doubleton. Balanced hands are balanced, and unless partner shows a singleton opposite your weak suit, you go for 3NT.

But here you don't even have a small doubleton!

And once you made the mistake to open 1 you can still recover. At your third turn, you have the most balanced hand you could possibly have so your 3rd bid is 3nt, not 5.

And even if you are worried about 3nt in partner's hand if they don't have a diamond stopper, your third bid could be 3. Certainly not 5.
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#17 User is offline   Cyberyeti 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 13:23

View PostWasWinM, on 2025-June-27, 12:50, said:

I generally try to avoid contracts where trump has to break 3-3.
:-)


And prefer to be potentially in a 3N where a suit has to break 4-4 ?
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#18 User is offline   pescetom 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 14:31

View Posthelene_t, on 2025-June-27, 13:10, said:

A Bermuda Bowl player who used to post here once said that his bestr advice to intermediate players was not to worry about stoppers at all.

Another very good player wrote that when neither player has a singleton, 3NT is "always" better than 5.

So both maxims imply that there is no such thing as a small doubleton. Balanced hands are balanced, and unless partner shows a singleton opposite your weak suit, you go for 3NT.

But here you don't even have a small doubleton!

And once you made the mistake to open 1 you can still recover. At your third turn, you have the most balanced hand you could possibly have so your 3rd bid is 3nt, not 5.

And even if you are worried about 3nt in partner's hand if they don't have a diamond stopper, your third bid could be 3. Certainly not 5.


When I started playing, we had one old lady who always
A) sat NS at table 2 (with the excuse of limited mobility)
B) bid 3NT whenever possible
C) scored quite well.

I gradually figured out that B and C were inter-related and that table 2 was the warmest in winter and coolest in summer.
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#19 User is offline   jillybean 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 15:03

View Postpescetom, on 2025-June-27, 14:31, said:

When I started playing, we had one old lady who always
A) sat NS at table 2 (with the excuse of limited mobility)
B) bid 3NT whenever possible
C) scored quite well.

I gradually figured out that B and C were inter-related and that table 2 was the warmest in winter and coolest in summer.

You played against my Mum?
It was a family joke, we knew that whenever we opened the bidding, if Mum had anything she would bid 3nt.
When I played with my Mum at a Vegas NABC I forbade her from bidding 3nt over my opening and gave her extra pass cards.
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." MikeH
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#20 User is offline   WasWinM 

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Posted 2025-June-27, 17:36

 Cyberyeti, on 2025-June-27, 13:23, said:

And prefer to be potentially in a 3N where a suit has to break 4-4 ?

5c only needs D ace onside, 50%. seriously though 4h is the winner but you won’t get rich playing against a pair who can successfully get to that contract.
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